Wood Lamination

Wood Lamination

1. Select board to be laminated, make sure they are free of nails, staples, plaster, etc.

2. Determine if they are flat surfaces without cups, bends, or twists.

3. If they are flat, skip to step #6.

4. If they are in need of flattening, you can use the joiner (must have demo from Brad to use), planer, hand plane, orbital sander, and belt sanders to flatten.

5. Remember, flat is different than smooth. A sphere for instance, can be smooth but not flat. Work on getting as “true” a flat surface as possible. This will help boards make full contact while being glued up.

6. Cut any necessary shapes from the boards on the band saw or jig saw that might help reduce the amount of carving needed.

7. Use orbital sander, with 180 grit or higher sand paper, very lightly, and not too long in one area on surface to be glued up. Use care not to sacrifice flatness for smoothness.

8. Lay material to be laminated in strata while dry. Check for any gaps and inconsistencies that clamps can’t press out. Lay out plastic or wax paper on table.

9. Use damp paper towel or wet sponge to thoroughly dampen the wood surfaces taking glue, do not submerge in water.

10. While damp, apply glue liberally, spreading it flat with fingers or the like, to both surfaces being connected, immediately press those together firmly, wiggling a bit to level glue in-between.

11. If more strata are necessary, repeat process. Thin slices laminate in number better than thick boards, which are better suited for individual gluing sessions.

12. When all boards involved are glued up, immediately apply clamps to outside most planes, first securing each in place, then methodically tightening each a bit until very secure with glue being forced from sides.

13. Clean any glue off sides with wet paper towel, as well as clamps and table. Set piece on shelf with plastic or wax paper underneath, shopping bags are great for that. Rinse out sponges and clean work areas well, glue dribbles and dots will disallow flat, square surfaces to be worked on the table.

Safety: Safety glasses, ventilation, care in navigating your surroundings are all required, as well as demonstrations by instructor on all tools involved.

Wood Shop Safety

Wood Shop Tool Safety (a supplement to the in-class demonstration on safety)

1. Always wear safety glasses in the woodshop.

2. Always turn on the vent/exhaust fan while working in woodshop.

Table Saw

1. Examine direction of wood grain. Determine a way to cut your pattern so that you are not crossing the majority of the plys or single grains. In other words no “cross-cutting” on table saw.

2. Always use a firm grip that pins the wood to the table bed, this reduces kick-backs.

3. If the area between the fence and the blade is less than a foot, a push stick must be used to feed the panel.

4. Please, no used lumber through table saw unless thoroughly inspected!

5. Inspect each panel for nails or staples that could shorten the life of a blade.

6. When cutting full sheets have an assistant to help catch and guide excess.

7. All wood cut on table saw must engage the fence and run parallel to its length.

8. If you are making a cut less than 12” in length it might be better done on the miter saw.

9. If you are cutting a full sheet, 4’x8’, alone, you would be better served using the panel saw.

Miter Saw

1. This tool is great at cross-cutting boards that are less than 12” wide.

2. Always draw saw out from the fence, turn on, engage wood slowly pressing down, then press slowly back towards the fence.

3. Never cut small boards that put your stabilization hand within 12” of the blade, get a larger board from which to cut that piece.

4. All cuts must be made while stabilizing the board being cut with one hand, pinning the board down and back against the fence. Make sure the board isn’t warped so badly that it no longer makes contact with the fence at the cut.

Panel Saw

1. This tool is made to cross-cut full sheets of plywood and panel into more manageable pieces. Its accuracy is questionable at times, so align blade with marked panel, not the outside triangular notch. Watch the power cord as it can get caught at times preventing fluid pass.

2. May be used to rip sheets by turning the saw portion to be parallel to the bottom guide. This is great for cutting full sheets alone.

3. Again no used lumber unless thoroughly inspected!

4. This saw is not for small work. No wood that does not extend past the edges of the saw guide should be cut.

Sanders

1. Always know which direction the belt or disc is turning, and approach the surface in careful regard of that knowledge.

2. Do not sand metal, plastic, or foam on wood belts.

Band Saws

1. Always adjust throat of blade just above the surface of your board width.

2. Never cut used wood without inspection, (check for nails or staples).

3. No foam or plastics in bandsaw without consulting instructor.

4. Care should be used when cutting cylindrical boards. Wedges or board rest should be employed, consult instructor.

Wood Plane, Wood Joiner, Lathe

1. Will be instructed on a demonstration and individual basis as need arises do to their specialty.