Wood Lamination

Wood Lamination

1. Select board to be laminated, make sure they are free of nails, staples, plaster, etc.

2. Determine if they are flat surfaces without cups, bends, or twists.

3. If they are flat, skip to step #6.

4. If they are in need of flattening, you can use the joiner (must have demo from Brad to use), planer, hand plane, orbital sander, and belt sanders to flatten.

5. Remember, flat is different than smooth. A sphere for instance, can be smooth but not flat. Work on getting as “true” a flat surface as possible. This will help boards make full contact while being glued up.

6. Cut any necessary shapes from the boards on the band saw or jig saw that might help reduce the amount of carving needed.

7. Use orbital sander, with 180 grit or higher sand paper, very lightly, and not too long in one area on surface to be glued up. Use care not to sacrifice flatness for smoothness.

8. Lay material to be laminated in strata while dry. Check for any gaps and inconsistencies that clamps can’t press out. Lay out plastic or wax paper on table.

9. Use damp paper towel or wet sponge to thoroughly dampen the wood surfaces taking glue, do not submerge in water.

10. While damp, apply glue liberally, spreading it flat with fingers or the like, to both surfaces being connected, immediately press those together firmly, wiggling a bit to level glue in-between.

11. If more strata are necessary, repeat process. Thin slices laminate in number better than thick boards, which are better suited for individual gluing sessions.

12. When all boards involved are glued up, immediately apply clamps to outside most planes, first securing each in place, then methodically tightening each a bit until very secure with glue being forced from sides.

13. Clean any glue off sides with wet paper towel, as well as clamps and table. Set piece on shelf with plastic or wax paper underneath, shopping bags are great for that. Rinse out sponges and clean work areas well, glue dribbles and dots will disallow flat, square surfaces to be worked on the table.

Safety: Safety glasses, ventilation, care in navigating your surroundings are all required, as well as demonstrations by instructor on all tools involved.

3 comments:

  1. Hiya Brad

    Thanks for your sound advise.
    Just one question though - why do you in no.9 apply dampness to the wood prior to gluing?

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  2. Good question Douglas, it would seem counterintuitive to add moisture to a dried piece of lumber. Wood is super porous. Adding a slight amount of moisture, if not too much, can act as a vehicle for getting the more viscous glue to penetrate into those pores. It isn't crucial, but can create a stronger bond between layers that need the extra help (dissimilar species, hardnesses, small connection area.) I suppose in a professional woodshop you could have a glue formulated with the exact viscosity for lamination, but in our shop, we get cheap glue and it has to do a lot of jobs. Thanks for the question, what are your thoughts?

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  3. I think this is the most systematic approach, which I have ever read about laminating the wood. I must say that those people, who will adopt this approach, will laminate their wooden pieces with ease.

    Regards;
    Ahmed Yaqoob Khan
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