Color/Finish Guide

Color/Finish Guide (Use this guide to determine how to finish a sculpture with color and sheen)

I want my piece to be more: Natural / Altered

I want my piece to be more: Warm / Cool

I want More material to show / Less Material to show through the colored surface.

I want my piece to be: Glossy / Semi-glossy / Satin / Flat / Dry

I want my piece to be: Colorful /Neutral

I want my piece to feel: Fun / Serious

I want my piece to be: understated / Pop

I want my piece to look: Aggressive /Passive

I enjoy color harmonies that are: Monochromatic / Triadic / Multiple

Color Hues I am considering are:_____________________________________________________

The Hue should be: Saturated / Desaturated

If Desaturated, I might consider: Tinting (lighter) / Shading (darker)

Regarding color harmony, My piece is more: Consistent / Varied

Notes on Color

Notes on Color (accumulated sources):

www.worqx.com/color/color_basics.htm, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_theory , and Stewart’s “Launching the Imagination”. Includes side notes from Brad Allen.

Subtractive Color. (Surfacing) When we mix colors using paint, or through the printing process, we are using the subtractive color method. Subtractive color mixing means that one begins with white and ends with black; as one adds color, the result gets darker and tends to black. Much like painting we will be using subtractive method in finishing your sculptures. One difference here being, white canvas or paper is replaced with blonde pine, etc.

Additive Color. (Illumination)If we are working on a computer, the colors we see on the screen are created with light using the additive color method. Additive color mixing begins with black and ends with white; as more color is added, the result is lighter and tends to white.

Hue (e.g., red, orange, yellow, green, blue or purple).

Lightness (light vs. dark, or white vs. black),

Chroma, intensity, saturation and luminance/value are inter-related terms and have to do with the description of a color.

Chroma: How pure a hue is in relation to gray

Saturation: The degree of purity of a hue.(intense vs. dull)

Shade: A hue produced by the addition of black. 


Tint: A hue produced by the addition of white.

Intensity: The brightness or dullness of a hue. One may lower the intensity by adding white or black.

Luminance / Value: A measure of the amount of light reflected from a hue. Those hues with a high content of white have a higher luminance or value.

Shade and tint are terms that refer to a variation of a hue.

Complementary colors: We look at a color wheel to understand the relationships between colors. Analogous colors are positioned (next to one another) in such a way as to mimic the process that occurs when blending hues. The colors that are positioned opposite one another are complementary colors.

Achromatic colors: Any color that lacks strong chromatic content is said to be unsaturated, achromatic, or near neutral. Pure achromatic colors include black, white and all grays; near neutrals include browns, tans, pastels and darker colors. Near neutrals can be of any hue or lightness.

Neutrals are obtained by mixing pure colors with either white or black, or by mixing two complementary colors. In color theory, neutral colors are colors easily modified by adjacent more saturated colors and they appear to take on the hue complementary to the saturated color. Next to a bright red couch, a gray wall will appear distinctly greenish.

Warm vs. cool colors

The distinction between warm and cool colors has been important since at least the late 18th century [1] but is generally not remarked in modern color science. The contrast, as traced by etymologies in the Oxford English Dictionary, seems related to the observed contrast in landscape light, between the "warm" colors associated with daylight or sunset and the "cool" colors associated with a gray or overcast day. Warm colors are often said to be hues from red through yellow, browns and tans included; cool colors are often said to be the hues from blue green through blue violet, most grays included. Color theory has ascribed perceptual and psychological effects to this contrast. Warm colors are said to advance or appear more active in a painting, while cool colors tend to recede; used in interior design or fashion, warm colors are said to arouse or stimulate the viewer, while cool colors calm and relax.

Color harmony and color meaning (from Wiki, writer takes a scientific, less artistic, approach)

Color theory has long had the goal of predicting or specifying the color combinations that would work well together or appear harmonious. The color wheel has been adopted as a tool for defining these basic relationships. Some theorists and artists believe juxtapositions of complementary color is able to produce a strong contrast or tension, because they annihilate each other when mixed; others believe the juxtapositions of complementary colors produce harmonious color interactions. Colors next to each other on the color wheel are called analogous colors. They tend to produce a single-hued or a dominant color experience. Harmony has been sought in combinations other than these two. A split complementary color scheme employs a range of analogous hues, "split" from a basic key color, with the complementary color as contrast. A triadic color scheme adopts any three colors approximately equidistant around the hue circle. Printers or photographers sometimes employ a duotone color scheme, generated as value gradations in black and a single colored ink or color filter; painters sometimes refer to the same effect as a monochromatic color scheme.

Color in sculpture:

Thought must be given to the 3-Dimensional viewing experience. For example, using red on a limb of your sculpture that you want to visually extend forward into the viewer’s space would work great from one perceived side of the sculpture. However, on the back side of the work if that same limb is visible, it may visually extend into space as perceived from the back of your sculpture as well. Color must be designed in 3-D as well as the formal shapes within your work.

Color on material:

Most materials have an inherent color. A choice must be made between accentuating this “natural” color and concealing it. Color can be transparent, letting the natural colors come through, in our case showing grain structure. Color could also hide what the material is made of by using an opaque application of paint or laminate materials. Color can be applied to small portions of the object’s surface or all of its surface, consistency and variety are important design elements here.

Requirements:

Everyone must consider color, and use it in a way that informs your overall design. If you do not apply color to any portion of your sculpture you will loose points in the design category of your grade. Painting your entire piece is not mandatory.

Wood Lamination

Wood Lamination

1. Select board to be laminated, make sure they are free of nails, staples, plaster, etc.

2. Determine if they are flat surfaces without cups, bends, or twists.

3. If they are flat, skip to step #6.

4. If they are in need of flattening, you can use the joiner (must have demo from Brad to use), planer, hand plane, orbital sander, and belt sanders to flatten.

5. Remember, flat is different than smooth. A sphere for instance, can be smooth but not flat. Work on getting as “true” a flat surface as possible. This will help boards make full contact while being glued up.

6. Cut any necessary shapes from the boards on the band saw or jig saw that might help reduce the amount of carving needed.

7. Use orbital sander, with 180 grit or higher sand paper, very lightly, and not too long in one area on surface to be glued up. Use care not to sacrifice flatness for smoothness.

8. Lay material to be laminated in strata while dry. Check for any gaps and inconsistencies that clamps can’t press out. Lay out plastic or wax paper on table.

9. Use damp paper towel or wet sponge to thoroughly dampen the wood surfaces taking glue, do not submerge in water.

10. While damp, apply glue liberally, spreading it flat with fingers or the like, to both surfaces being connected, immediately press those together firmly, wiggling a bit to level glue in-between.

11. If more strata are necessary, repeat process. Thin slices laminate in number better than thick boards, which are better suited for individual gluing sessions.

12. When all boards involved are glued up, immediately apply clamps to outside most planes, first securing each in place, then methodically tightening each a bit until very secure with glue being forced from sides.

13. Clean any glue off sides with wet paper towel, as well as clamps and table. Set piece on shelf with plastic or wax paper underneath, shopping bags are great for that. Rinse out sponges and clean work areas well, glue dribbles and dots will disallow flat, square surfaces to be worked on the table.

Safety: Safety glasses, ventilation, care in navigating your surroundings are all required, as well as demonstrations by instructor on all tools involved.

Wood Shop Safety

Wood Shop Tool Safety (a supplement to the in-class demonstration on safety)

1. Always wear safety glasses in the woodshop.

2. Always turn on the vent/exhaust fan while working in woodshop.

Table Saw

1. Examine direction of wood grain. Determine a way to cut your pattern so that you are not crossing the majority of the plys or single grains. In other words no “cross-cutting” on table saw.

2. Always use a firm grip that pins the wood to the table bed, this reduces kick-backs.

3. If the area between the fence and the blade is less than a foot, a push stick must be used to feed the panel.

4. Please, no used lumber through table saw unless thoroughly inspected!

5. Inspect each panel for nails or staples that could shorten the life of a blade.

6. When cutting full sheets have an assistant to help catch and guide excess.

7. All wood cut on table saw must engage the fence and run parallel to its length.

8. If you are making a cut less than 12” in length it might be better done on the miter saw.

9. If you are cutting a full sheet, 4’x8’, alone, you would be better served using the panel saw.

Miter Saw

1. This tool is great at cross-cutting boards that are less than 12” wide.

2. Always draw saw out from the fence, turn on, engage wood slowly pressing down, then press slowly back towards the fence.

3. Never cut small boards that put your stabilization hand within 12” of the blade, get a larger board from which to cut that piece.

4. All cuts must be made while stabilizing the board being cut with one hand, pinning the board down and back against the fence. Make sure the board isn’t warped so badly that it no longer makes contact with the fence at the cut.

Panel Saw

1. This tool is made to cross-cut full sheets of plywood and panel into more manageable pieces. Its accuracy is questionable at times, so align blade with marked panel, not the outside triangular notch. Watch the power cord as it can get caught at times preventing fluid pass.

2. May be used to rip sheets by turning the saw portion to be parallel to the bottom guide. This is great for cutting full sheets alone.

3. Again no used lumber unless thoroughly inspected!

4. This saw is not for small work. No wood that does not extend past the edges of the saw guide should be cut.

Sanders

1. Always know which direction the belt or disc is turning, and approach the surface in careful regard of that knowledge.

2. Do not sand metal, plastic, or foam on wood belts.

Band Saws

1. Always adjust throat of blade just above the surface of your board width.

2. Never cut used wood without inspection, (check for nails or staples).

3. No foam or plastics in bandsaw without consulting instructor.

4. Care should be used when cutting cylindrical boards. Wedges or board rest should be employed, consult instructor.

Wood Plane, Wood Joiner, Lathe

1. Will be instructed on a demonstration and individual basis as need arises do to their specialty.